Capsicums (Capsicum annuum) also know as Peppers
GROWING SUMMARY​
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Onions are frost hardy and germinate best between
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Timing:
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Direct Seeding
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Growing Seedlings
Germination temperature -
Bed Preparation
Raised beds
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Plant Spacing
Germination temperature -
Irrigation
Germination temperature -
Pests and Diseases
Germination temperature -
Harvesting
November – January depending on variety & location
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GROWING SUMMARY​
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Quick growing, frost tender perennial grown as an annual in temperate Australia. Also known as Sweet Peppers.
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To maximise production plant seedlings into the ground as soon as the last danger of frost is over.
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Seeds are planted 6-8 weeks before transplanting into the garden. They need warmth to germinate (27-32°C) so in cold areas you will need to invest in a heat mat.
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Capsicums need full sun, fertile, well drained soil with a pH of about 6.5. Not too much nitrogen which will promote leafy growth at the expense of fruit. They need adequate potassium (potash/wood ash) for health and productivity. Grow them in raised beds which warm up quicker in spring, stay warm later in the autumn and optimise drainage.
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Set out with 500mm between plants, 750mm to a metre between rows. They are happy in a staggered double row on raised beds
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Drip irrigation will minimise weeds and fungal problems. It is important to keep the soil damp.
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Eggfruit caterpillars also attack capsicums particularly towards the end of the season or if the plants become stressed. The moth lays its eggs on the calyx at the top of the fruit. When the caterpillars hatch they bore straight into the fruit in search of immature seeds. If necessary use a foliar insecticide. Bacillus thuringiensis (BT/Dipel) targets caterpillars specifically without harming beneficial insects.
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Capsicum stems are very brittle and the large heavy fruits can weigh them down. We do one prune when the plants are about 300mm high. Remove side shoots up until the main stem starts to split into 3 and set small flowers. Remove the weakest of the 3 stems leaving the plant with a Y shaped architecture and prune off all but one flower. This process seems harsh but it means you won't damage the plants when you start harvesting. It will also help spread out the setting and ripening of the fruit. Trellising is also necessary to stop the top heavy plants falling over.
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Once the fruit reaches the desired size harvest regularly to encourage more production. Fruit can be picked when plump and well formed but it is worth the 3-4 week wait to allow them to get to fully coloured. All capsicums start out green then change to their final colour. This is a crucial time for the fruit. They become very sweet and attractive to not only bugs but rodents who bite a hole, poke their heads inside, eat all the seeds then move on to the fruit. Be vigilant!
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Capsicums can also get sun burnt. Round brown patches on the shoulders are caused by over heating and or not enough leaf.
VARIETIES​
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Home gardeners often find capsicums challenging particularly in cold areas. Get your plants going as early as you can, protecting them from late frosts if necessary.
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Big Blocky Bell Peppers - these come in lots of colours from yellow to chocolate and if you aim to grow them to full colour look for new hybrid varieties rather than the old favourites.
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Long Varieties - The Italian Bullhorns and pale coloured banana peppers and highly productive and a bit easier to grow than bell peppers.
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Hungarian Sweet Paprika - a long, deep red classic with wonderful flavour. Again prolific and one of the easier capsicums to grow. Fully ripe red, dried and ground they can be stored as sweet paprika powder