Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
GROWING SUMMARY​
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Onions are frost hardy and germinate best between
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Timing:
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Direct Seeding
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Growing Seedlings
Germination temperature -
Bed Preparation
Raised beds
On the flat -
Plant Spacing
Germination temperature -
Irrigation
Germination temperature -
Pests and Diseases
Germination temperature -
Harvesting
November – January depending on variety & location
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GROWING SUMMARY​
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Asparagus is a long lived perennial which takes a couple of years to get established. Well cared for you can expect up to 20 years from an asparagus patch. Every spring it will reward you with delicious tasting spears, very different from anything you will taste out of a shop.
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Like most vegetables asparagus prefers well drained soils but it can tolerate wet feet from time to time. So it does equally well grown as a large flat plot, in raised mounds or in container gardens.
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What asparagus does need is rich, well fertilised soil. Initially prepare your beds with lots of well composted manure and/or blood and bone/fish meal.
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Asparagus is one of the most salt tolerant vegetables that we grow and does well in coastal gardens and places irrigated with brackish bore water.
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Growing from crowns.
Plant crowns 250-350mm apart in furrows 150-200mm deep. Allow a minimum of a metre between rows. They need plenty of space to produce thick spears. Make sure the growing buds are facing up and spread the roots out. Plant shallower if the crowns are small, the soils heavy or if you are growing in warm areas. -
It is very important to keep the young plants weed free so mulch heavily
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Growing from seed.
Alternatively grow from seed in pots in summer (earlier in green houses) ready for planting out the following spring. Seed needs fairly high temperatures to germinate. 23–27°C during the day and over 18°C at night. Plant exactly as you would crowns. -
Harvesting.
Harvest by snapping the spears off (above the snap point the asparagus is tender, below the snap point it becomes stringy and tough). Alternatively cut just below the ground surface and snap in the kitchen. Do not harvest in the first year. It is important to let the plants get well established. Harvest for about 1-2 weeks in the second season, 2-3 weeks the year after and up to 6 weeks or more in their third year. Stop harvesting at the beginning of December or when the spears are less than pencil width thick. Young asparagus spears are frost tender so make sure you pick any, even if they are small, if you are expecting it to freeze overnight. -
After harvesting stops the plants will continue to grow into tall bushes, replenishing and strengthening their root system for the next season.
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Cut back to ground level once the foliage dies back in winter. Fertilise, weed and mulch ready for the next crop.
VARIETIES​
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A limited range of both red and green varieties are available as crowns. You will have more choice ordering seeds.
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Mary Washington - an old fashioned, productive favourite.
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UC 157 - a modern, high yielding hybrid variety favoured by commercial growers
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Purple Varieties - these have a higher sugar content than the green varieties. The taste is milder, nutty and sweet. Purple asparagus is also very tender and less stringy than the green varieties. The spears turn green when cooked.
MORE INFORMATION
Why Grow Asparagus?
There are two really good reasons to grow asparagus. First of all the flavour. Asparagus loses flavour, moisture and antioxidants wonce harvested. There is nothing like snapping off a spear in the field and eating it raw. Asparagus also makes a welcome addition in the kitchen at a period of the year know as "the hungry gap". In early spring the winter stalwarts are finished and the summer fruiting superstars are in the ground but not ready to harvest. Asparagus along with broad beans, peas, green garlic, radishes, asian greens and salad greens make a great seasonal change and fill this gap.
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Male Or Female?
Asparagus is dioecious which means that it comes in male and female plants. The male plants produce large thick spears. The female plants put more of their energy into seed production. The spears are thinner and when fully grown covered with small red berries. It is therefor preferable to grow male plants only. A few suppliers advertise male only seeds. These male only seeds are a product of some very clever plant hybridisation work. However it does beg the question "what happens if all asparagus plants end up being male?". Growing your own asparagus crowns from seed becomes a much better option. Asparagus seed is cheap so grow at least twice as many as you need. If you plant them in early spring/late winger in a warm place and grow them on in pots you will be able to cull the females in the autumn, after they flower, leaving you with males to plant out in the ground.
It is also possible to dig up older male plants and divide them into single crowns for replanting. However a well established asparagus plant has a huge, tangled root system making division difficult without damaging the plants. Like young crowns they will need a year or two to reestablish. It is just as quick to grow new plants from seed.
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Different Weed Management Strategies
In order to become really productive young asparagus plants must be kept weed free and the best way to do this is using mulches.
Once the plants are well established you can use another lazy method of management. Let the plants and any weeds go crazy after picking. You can also throw around some summer legume seed like lab lab beans at this stage. Well established asparagus crowns will out compete almost all annual plants/weeds (this will not work for vigorous summer perennials like kikuyu). Once the weather cools down and the fronds yellow and die off slash the whole area leaving all the vegetation as a mulch on the surface. We have successfully introduced chooks into the patch at this stage and left them there till the middle of August when the asparagus starts growing again. In anticipation of the first spears knock down any early growth with your mower, pick the asparagus a few times, mow, repeat till the end of picking season and start again.
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White Asparagus
White asparagus is produced from any asparagus crown by growing the plants in the dark. Traditionally this was done by hilling the spears with soil as soon as they start to emerge. You need deep friable soils and a special knife that cuts the spears deep below the ground. These days commercial growers cover the plants with black cloches which exclude the light. Harvesting needs to happen after dark. When the picking season is finished the plants are allowed to grow on in full sunlight to replenish their energy stores for the next season. The blanched spears are sweet, tender however as someone who has grown and enjoyed fresh picked asparagus for over 30 years it is too much effort. I actully love the full flavour of green asparagus and have always found it tender when picked young.